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 Yarmouth was settled in 1639 by farmers emigrating from Plymouth Bay Colony. By The disparity which exists between the north side on Cape Cod Bay (Yarmouth Port) and the south side (West and South Yarmouth) which runs along Route 28, is significant. Yarmouth Port is an enchanting village, with more than 50 sea captains’ houses (many now B&Bs), stone walls and bay and marsh glimpses along Route 6A, the Old King’s Highway. By contrast, West and South Yarmouth are commercial, with a surfeit of hotels and motels and every shopping and mercantile option and amenity visitors’ hearts could desire. From the south side, there is ready access to prized warm water beaches and to Hyannis, with its many entertainment and transportation options. Many visitors enjoy ricocheting between these shores, taking in the best of both “worlds,” for one can relax in bucolic surroundings watching ospreys dive for victuals and, within ten minutes, be surrounded by humanity along Route 28. Along the two coasts—the northern, bay side and southern, ocean side—golden sunsets and golden arches both have their place in any Cape Cod holiday. Yarmouth is truly a town of many faces. Along the Route 28 side , there is no shortage of places to stay or eat; they line up from the town border to Bass River at its border with Dennis. Every gustatory and mercantile itch can be scratched. Factory outlets, chain stores, tee-shirt shops and souvenir havens, miniature golf courses, salt water taffy, eateries of every persuasion—pizza, gyros, clam fritters, lobster, you name it, this “strip” has it. Drive north to the Bay side and experience its gentler side—Yarmouth Port. There are stands of stately sea captain’s houses. Singular shops and boutiques, country inns, bed & breakfasts and tony restaurants line Olde King’s Highway. Stone walls demarcate former pastures and trumpet vines, with riots of orange blossoms and ultra green foliage, sprout from trellises and arbors. The road oxbows along the profile of the north side with nature trails and discrete side streets wending their way ever so slowly, but surely, to Cape Cod Bay. Along a two-mile stretch of Route 6A in Yarmouth Port, there exists an eclectic array of structures housing private residences, B&Bs, antiques shops, restaurants and galleries, not one of which was built in the 20th or 21st century. Along Route 28, however, it is possible to lapse into nostalgia by heading down Old Main Street in the part of South Yarmouth the ‘old timers’ refer to as Bass River. This bucolic byway—which parallels Route 28 for much of its course towards West Yarmouth—contains a wonderful collection of period residences along its bowered side streets and River Road and diminutive and secret Sound beaches. Yarmouth is both old and new—and
both contribute mightily to its appeal, making it the study in
contrasts which it is. It would be difficult to visit Yarmouth
Port for any period of time without venturing into West and South
Yarmouth’s commercial centers for shopping, dining or entertainment.
Likewise, visitors whose lodging is situated on the southern
shore will naturally gravitate to the Bay-side out of curiosity.
No town with more diversity exists on the Cape and, although
trite, it is a truism that Yarmouth offers something for everyone. Bass Hole, runs from Homer’s Dock Road to the salt marsh. This nature area is one of the town’s most beautiful. Bass Hole Boardwalk traverses a marshy creek and the 2½-mile Callery Darling Nature Trail pass through wetlands, upland meadows and salt marshes. (Enter the Trail near the Grey’s Beach parking lot). Captain Bangs Hallett House, Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. Built in 1840 for Thomas Thacher this 11-room Greek Revival home was built by adding on to the original century-old original house. The site is named for a prosperous retired sea captain who traded with China and India (from whence he earned a considerable fortune (and who lived here from 1863-1893. The house is furnished with elegant settees, tables and chairs and many classic old toys (such as a rocking horse with real animal hide and hair). Open Thursday and Sunday in July and August, Sunday only June to October and closed from October to May. Hallet’s, 139 Main Street (Route 6A), Yarmouth Port. Preserved as it was in 1889, this drugstore is still in the Hallet family. Upstairs there is a ‘museum’ full of nostalgic apothecary items, photographs and archives. A descendant of the original owner serves sandwiches and prepares egg creams, malteds and frappes. Closed January. Winslow Crocker House, 250 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port. This shingled Georgian building with handsome wood paneling and walk-in fireplace is furnished with antiques from the 17th-19th centuries. Originally built in 1780 in West Barnstable, it was moved to Yarmouth Port . A rare 17th century wooden cradle and blanket chest and Windsor writing chair are a few of the notable antiques which can be viewed here. Open June to mid-October, limited hours. ZooQuarium,
674 Route 28, West Yarmouth. This entertaining and educational
spot (for both children and adults) features sea lion shows,
petting zoo with native wildlife, peacocks, summer pony rides,
aquariums, educational programs and the Children’s Discovery
Center. Mid-February to June and September to late November. |
