|
 More than 70 percent of Wellfleet’s terrain is clothed in forests of oak and pine, and the drive along Route 6 into town offers fleeting clues of the natural splendor awaiting the visitor, due to the one- to two-mile girth of the peninsula at this point. The entire unpretentious town is in harmony—from these still stands of trees to its wide, wonderful beaches, from its serene and surreal town center to its incomparable ocean vistas. During the 17th century, Wellfleet—then known as Billingsgate—was part of Eastham. The town’s name may have been a reference to the more than 30 whaling ships—or whale fleet—which once sailed from the harbor. The town incorporated into the Town of Wellfleet in 1763 and is claimed to be the namesake of the Wellfleet (or Wallfleet), England, another town renowned for its oysters (oysters still are an important commodity to this Cape town). The town has been famous for Wellfleet Oysters ever since these tickled Champlain’s Gallic taste buds in 1606. Wellfleeters and gourmands happily agree that these choice shellfish are the most fragrant and sweetest of all oysters. Three of Wellfleet’s most distinctive assets are its spacious marina, deepwater ponds and kits rich shellfish beds and fishing grounds. Wellfleet was once center of a large oyster industry and, with neighboring Truro, a colonial whaling and codfish port. Less than two miles at its widest point, Wellfleet is one of the Cape’s most tastefully developed resort towns. Its beautiful town, centered around its picturesque harbor, once known as Grampus Bay after the pilot whales which stranded themselves here, contains beautiful historic homes, several fine restaurants and more than two dozen art galleries. Wellfleet’s sobriquet ‘the art gallery town’ is amply supported. En route to the center, the First Congregational Church, a handsome 1850 Greek Revival affair—replete with a stained glass window depicting a clipper ship—is alleged to be the only town clock which rings ship’s time (one, five and nine o’clock are two bells; two, six and ten o’clock are four bells; three, seven and eleven o’clock are six bells; and four, eight and twelve o’clock are eight bells. Half hours are struck by adding one stroke to the corresponding even hours). Ripley’s Believe It or Not has listed Wellfleet’s town clock’s method of ringing time, as have many newspapers and magazines. This beautifully harbored village has remained remarkably unsullied, essentially non-commercial and incredibly picturesque. Ladies in search of au courant (and surprisingly affordably priced) couture should check out Main Street. During the 18th century, nearly every man in Wellfleet was a whaler. Not surprising considering that whales were so plentiful that they often appeared in the town’s harbor. The leviathans were pursued—and often killed—by Wellfleeters in small boats. According to legend, both victorious and unsuccessful whalers often retreated to a tavern on the secluded bluffs of Great Island, there to drink, recount tales and consort with the ladies. In 1970, archaeologists excavated the foundation of what could well have been the legendary tavern, there finding 24,000 artifacts aged between 200 and 300 years. The town of Wellfleet is today often associated with pirate folklore and pirate dubloons and pieces of eight, a nod to the recent discovery of the remnants of the pirate ship Whydah, which sunk during a wild storm on April 26, 1717. Whydah was the flagship of pirate Sam “Black” Bellamy, who seized the ship, a onetime slave ship, in the Caribbean. Supposedly Bellamy was returning to the Cape to be with his love, Marie Hallett, when the storm struck the ship. Nearly all of the pirate crew were lost with the ship and the residue, who were later tried and hanged, testified that hundreds of pounds of gold, silver and other treasure were aboard. The wreck was discovered in 1982 and was placed on display at a Provincetown museum in 1996. Wellfleet supplements its neighbor, Eastham, with its plethora of cultural attractions and this quintessential New England town attracts artists, writers, psychiatrists and contemplative types who seek more in its landscape than mere quaintness or rusticity. There are more than two dozen art galleries in town, One notable spot is Wellfleet Harbor Actors’ Theater (WHAT), which presents some of the most provocative contemporary work on the Cape—perfect fare for the very cerebral types who are drawn here. Renowned writers such as Edna St. Vincent Millay and Edmund Vincent made Wellfleet de rigueur with literati during the 1920s. Wellfleet Drive-In (which doubles as a flea market on summer Sundays) is a fun spot to relive the ‘good old days’ with a double feature.
Main Beaches Other Beaches: Nature Trails: Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, Off Route 6. A 1,000-acre haven for more than 250 species of avians who are drawn by the Sanctuary’s diverse habitats. Hiking trails lead through woods, past moors and salt marshes which rim the Bay where beautiful sunsets are the rule. Activities such as guided birding, children’s day camps, marsh cruises, kayak and canoe expeditions and evening bat watches are offered. The on-site nature center features an aquarium and other exhibits plus a gift shop. Open year round. Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail, off Marconi Wireless Station parking area. This trail features a tea-tinted, moss-choked—but nonetheless captivating and magic—swamp which takes the heat off a sweltering and sultry summer’s day. A strategically-placed boardwalk takes you deep into the trail, with a return trek through deep sand. Great Island, at end of Chequesset Neck Road. Nature trails from this parking lot lead here, a wonderful spot for beachcombers or seekers of solitude. The Island is actually a peninsula connected by a sand spit, Great Island offers more than seven miles of sandy trails along the inner marshes, water and windswept dunes. Brave travelers will venture as far as Jeremy Point (the tip), just be certain that the tide is on its way out, not in. Marconi Wireless Station Site, Off Route 6. Guglielmo Marconi built telegraph towers here and, in 1903, sent the first two-way wireless message between the US and England from President Theodore Roosevelt to King Edward VI. Open all year. First Congregational Church, Main Street. An 1850 Greek Revival building with a town clock which strikes ship’s time (allegedly the only town clock in the world to do so). The interior features a beautiful brass chandelier emanating from an enormous gilt rosette, subtly colored stained glass windows, including a Tiffany-style window depicting a clipper ship, and pews which curve to form an amphitheater facing the altar. It also contains an 1873 738-pipe Hook & Hastings tracker action organ (concerts Sundays at 8pm in July and August). Uncle Tim’s Bridge, left off of Commercial Street. A much-photographed and beautiful vista across marshland and a tidal creek leading to a small wooded island. Wellfleet Historical Society Museum and Samuel Rider House, Main Street. A restored Cape farmhouse exhibiting Wellfleet memorabilia roughly sorted into topics and an attic-like upstairs worthwhile for its toys. Wellfleet Harbor Actors’ Theater (WHAT), 1 Kendrick Avenue at Commerical Street. Founded in 1985 by Jeff Zinn and Gip Hoppe features a repertoire of six plays per summer and usually includes some original works, but always includes avant garde selections. |
