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 Lucky Josiah Dennis, 17th century Congregational minister who preached to his flock for nearly four decades. He was honored by having five Cape villages bear his name: East, West and South Dennis, Dennisport and Dennis. His former homestead, the Josiah Dennis Manse just off Route 6A, is now itself a museum. Be forewarned—do not take the directions literally, as one look at the map reveals the monikers’ ironies. Settled by cattle farmers, originally, Dennis was a part of Yarmouth and was christened East Parish. In 1793, it became incorporated as the Town of Dennis. Early settlers practiced shore whaling. As whale oil became more prized, these leviathans were pursued more aggressively and ‘watch houses’ were built at Sesuit and Nobscusset Harbor, providing alerts when whales happened into the Bay. Long boats were then dispatched to herd whales into the shallower water . Later, harpooning was employed, which meant whales no longer needed to be herded in the shallows. As New Bedford and Nantucket took on prominence as whaling ports, Dennis residents turned to fishing, trading and shipbuilding for sustenance. Dennis was home to many sea captains and, at Sesuit Harbor in East Dennis (a marker denotes the former Shipyard’s site), manufactured some of the 19th century’s finest packet boats, clippers and schooners. The Shipyard, known throughout the nation, built at least eight magnificent clipper ships, all of which were recognized in the Golden Age of Sail. Of these, only one, the Ellen Sears, did not have a Dennis captain. To its credit, cultivation of cranberries in bogs originated in Dennis. In 1815, retired sea captain Henry Hall observed that wild cranberries seemed to flourish in areas where the sand blew over them. He is widely considered to be the first individual replicating such conditions as a preferred way to cultivate the tart berries. Cranberry cultivation alone should have earned Dennis a place in history, but the method of extracting salt from sea water was also developed in (East) Dennis, prompting the development of salt works. During the period when the British were blockading American ports, the Continental Congress offered rewards to anyone developing an efficient method of producing salt. Captain John Sears of East Dennis received such a reward when he invented—and later patented—a solar evaporation vat. When visitors cross into Dennis, a more peaceful Cape emerges. Life, noticeably slower, seems a bit more subdued. Stately sea captains’ houses, rambling summer houses, artists’ studios and the renowned Cape Playhouse, where Bette Davis was once an usherette and which, since 1927, has launched many stage stars into renown, are mere appetizers of Dennis’ charm. West Dennis, just across Bass River Bridge from South Yarmouth, is where the quieter portion of the southern Cape begins. Strip malls dissipate, neighborhoods and period houses reappear. A predominant white steeple soars above large older homes and summer cottages and the roads slowly, surely wend their ways towards popular West Dennis Beach, on Nantucket Sounds, where the parking lot alone is one mile long. This popular locale is a summer favorite, thus early arrivals are a must to ensure a parking spot. Cross over Swan River to Dennisport, the ‘Old Cape Cod’ Patty Page made famous in her popular song. Small summer bungalows, small ocean-front motels which secret their own ‘private’ (read: unknown) beaches. The village center, with its bricked sidewalks, antique shops and shops is worthy of an afternoon stroll. Heading north on tree-lined Old Main Street, the commercialism of the south side falls away revealing handsome homesteads with expansive grounds. The road turns south (now called Old Bass River Road) and enters South Dennis, which begs the question “How can you enter South Dennis by heading north from West Dennis?” Dennis’ village names will seem appropriate if one reviews a comprehensive history of the Cape Some historians claim that Leif Erickson sailed up Bass River—the longest tidal river in the east—during the first millennium and built a camp five miles upriver. Off Old Bass River Road, street names—Viking, Thorvald and Leif Erickson Drives—are enduring reminders of this oft-disputed claim. Erickson’s descriptions, unusual stones and markings found here seem to support such a claim. Further down the road, a right turn on Scargo Hill Road up Scargo Hill (at 160 feet, the Cape’s highest) offers a compelling view of Scargo Lake, Cape Cod Bay and, on clear days, all the way to Provincetown, especially from atop Scargo Tower (built 1900), which sits atop the Hill. Native American legend speaks of a lovesick Indian princess’ tears filling the Lake, once named Nobscusset Pond. Cape Cod Rail Trail, an eight-foot wide former Penn-Central track, begins its 25-mile trek towards Wellfleet in at Route 134 in South Dennis, traversing ponds, salt marshes, dunes and Nickerson State Park en route. Dennis itself sprawls out west and east from the junction of Route 6A and Old Bass River Road, just past the gazebo. From its mix of residences, commercial enterprises and office, housed primarily in period buildings, to its glorious bay beaches, Dennis is a charmer. There are ample calm Bay beaches—Chapin, Mayflower, Bayview and Corporation Beaches—wonderful seaside haunts to be explored and relished. Nearby are the Cape Playhouse, which features live summer theater, and its adjacent Cape Cinema, the prettiest movie theater on Cape Cod. On the grounds, a mercantile complex offers food, baked goods and a gift shop. On the far side of Sesuit Harbor is East Dennis, the town’s last outpost before Brewster—and probably its oldest. Primarily residential in nature, the village has been overlooked, for the moment, by development. Crowes Pasture, featuring 1½ miles of dirt roads through open uplands and evergreen groves which parallel the Bay, can be reached either on foot or by four-wheel drive vehicle. Its wonderful hiking trails along Quivet Creek are bordered by low vegetation and wonderful Cape Cod Bay vistas. Each of Dennis’ villages presents a different facet of this marvelous town. Always refreshing, Dennis—in all of its incarnations, South, East, West Port or just plain—retreats from commercialism and imbues its residents and visitors with a wonderful sense of history and a love of its quiet, undisturbed beauty. Main Beaches: West Dennis Beach, Davis Beach Road, West Dennis; bathhouse,
snack bar
Jericho House and Barn Museum, (Built 1801) Old Main Street and Trotting Park Road, West Dennis. The name of this house was derived from an owner who rightly noted that the walls seemed to be tumbling down. Fortunately, this classic bow-roof Cape with large central chimney, has now been fully restored. Exhibits include household artifacts, 1850s portraits, and Chinese and other items brought from overseas by sea captains. In the barn museum are cranberry-harvesting and woodworking equipment, a model saltworks, marine antiques and 19th century sleighs and wagons. The 150-piece driftwood ‘zoo’ was created by a local man who found the driftwood on the shore and added eyes and beaks. Summer only. South Parish Congregational Church, Main Street, West Dennis. Known as “Captains’ Church,” features an 1835 Sandwich chandelier and a 1762 London Snetzler organ, the oldest pipe organ in continuous use in the US. Discovery Days Children’s Museum & Toy Shop, 444 Route 6A, Dennisport. For a very nominal admission, an entire family can have fun in a tremendous (i.e., 6,400 square foot) educational “play area” which features a “bubble-ology” lab, frozen shadow wall, transparent piano and oodles of fun and entertaining exhibits and activities. Great for a rainy day. Open all tear; shortened hours September-mid-June. Josiah Dennis Manse and Old West Schoolhouse, Whig Street, Dennis. This 1736 saltbox manse was the domicile of town founder Josiah Dennis. Visitors can self-guide themselves through both floors with friendly historians volunteering information for those who look interested in anything. There is a handsomely rendered model of Dennis’ Shiverick Shipyard, active for about 15 years from 1849-1864. Adjacent is a one-room schoolhouse (circa 1770), archetypal in description. Cape Playhouse, 36 Hope Lane (just off Route 6A). A landmark, this oldest continuously operating professional summer theater was founded in 1927. The former Nobscusset (Unitarian) Meetinghouse was moved then transformed—after several incarnations as livery stable, smithy, barn, slaughterhouse, and garage—on a 3½ acre lot into a theater which opened on July 4, 1927 with Basil Rathbone performing in The Guardsman. Open early June-late September. Cape Cinema, on the grounds of the Cape Playhouse. One may think he’s in Centerville when he pulls up here as its architect, Alfred Easton Poor, was commissioned to replicate the facade of that village’s Congregational Church and added a 6,400 square-foot Art Deco ceiling mural of Prometheus to the 92-seat interior. The Cinema opened July 1, 1930, world-premiering The Wizard of Oz. Home-baked goodies, gourmet coffee and chocolates round out this cinematic experience for less than its high-tech mall counterparts. Scargo Tower, off Scargo Hill Road. The 28-foot Tower was originally constructed as an observatory for the Nobscusset Hotel. Add to its height the 160-foot Scargo Hill and visitors can, on a clear day, usually see the entire Cape, from the Bridges to Provincetown with the azure Bay held captive in the intervening girth. Stretched out directly below is Scargo Lake, subject of several Native American legends. Legends aside, the Tower is a perfect aerie for binoculared visitors, camera buffs and, of course, children. Cape Museum of Fine Arts, Adjacent to Cape Playhouse, 60 Hope Lane, Dennis. The CMFA was build in 1985 and presently houses more than 850 permanent works in its collection, which spans the period from 1898 to the present. The Museum organizes classes, tours and regional art discovery tours. Open year round. Reel Art Cinema at the CMFA shows avant garde, classic, art and independent films on weekends from October to April. |
